COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL INDEX. Abonda Gallery (Warsaw), GENERAL INDEX. See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below.

INDEX See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below. GENERAL INDEX Abonda Gallery (Warsaw), 92 Access America, 282 Accommodations. See also Accommodations Index best, 2 Białowie9a area, 277 279 Camping Le1ny No. 51 (Łeba), 252 Cieszyn, 115 Cz7stochowa, 107 108 Elblºg, 258 Gda^sk, 235 237 Gniezno, 217 green, 44 Hel Peninsula, 249 250 hotel chains, 47 Hotel Gołºbek (Łeba), 252 Hotel Neptun (Łeba), 252 253 Jawor, 195 Jelenia Góra, 199 Kazimierz Dolny, 179 180 Kraków, 132 138 Ksiaz Castle/Wałbrzych, 194 Łeba, 252 253 Łód3, 103 104 Lublin, 168 169 Malbork area, 254 255 Pod Zegarem (Łeba), 252 Pozna^, 209 212 private, 48 Sopot, 244 245 2widnica, 194 Szklarska Por7ba, 200 Tarnów, 160 161 tips on, 47 48 toll-free numbers and websites, 287 Toru^, 222 223 Warsaw, 67 74 Wrocław, 188 189 Zakopane, 153 155 Zamo15, 176 177 Adam Bieniek (Warsaw), 65 Aga Tours (Wrocław), 187 AHOJ Czarter (W7gorzewo), 264 Airlines, toll-free numbers and websites, 285 286 Airports, 33 Gda^sk, 226 getting into town from, 33 Łód3, 100 Pozna^, 205 security procedures, 31 Warsaw, 62 Wrocław, 184 Air quality, 39 Air travel, 33, 35 deep vein thrombosis (economy class syndrome), 39 green-friendly, 44 jet lag, 35 staying comfortable on long-haul flights, 34 Warsaw, 62 63 AITO (Association of Independent Tour Operators), 43 Alchemia (Kraków), 143 Almatur-Opole, 45 Amber, 6 Amber Museum (Gda^sk), 10, 229 American Bookstore (Warsaw), 92 American Express, 280 Warsaw, 65 Andrzejewski, Jerzy, 23 Andrzej Jedynak (Warsaw), 93 Animal-rights issues, 43 44 Another Day of Life (Kapu1ci^ski), 24 Antique Market at Stara RzeYnia (Pozna^), 209 Antiques Kraków, 131 Warsaw, 91 Antyki Józefa (Kraków), 131 Apteka Beata (Warsaw), 66 Apteka Grabowskiego (Warsaw), 66 Apteka Pod Orłem (Pharmacy Under the Eagle; Kraków), 129 Archaeological Museum (Gda^sk), 232 Archaeological Reserve (Rezerwat Archeologiczny; Biskupin), 219 Archdiocesan Museum (Kraków), 122 Area codes, 280 Arena (Warsaw), 66 Arkadia (Warsaw), 90 The Arsenal Museum of Weapons (Zamo15), 176 Art galleries Kraków, 131 Warsaw, 91 Zakopane, 156 Art Gallery Yam (Zakopane), 156 Artus Court (Dwór Artusa; Gda^sk), 229 Ashes and Diamonds (movie), 22 Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO), 43 AS-Tours (Piecki), 265 Atest (Kraków), 131 ATMs (automated-teller machines), 38 Augustów, 268 accommodations, 271 restaurants, 273 Augustów Canal (Kanał Augustowski), 268, 270 Augustów Canoe Center, 269, 270 COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL

Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp (O1wi7cim), 1, 19, 20, 116, 146 149 books about, 24 25 Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum (Auschwitz- Birkenau Concentration Camp), 148 Austeria (Kraków), 132, 147 Australia customs regulations, 32 embassies and consulates, 281 passports, 283 Austrian Dental Center (Warsaw), 66 Automobile organizations, 280 Avenue of Merit (Warsaw), 84 Avis, 65, 286 Balcerowicz, Leszek, 20 Balsam (Warsaw), 95 Bałucki Rynek (Łód3), 101 102 Banana boats, Sopot, 243 Banasik (Warsaw), 92 Barszcz, 27 Bastion of St. Roch (Cz7stochowa), 107 Battle of Grünwald (1410), 255 The Battle of Grünwald (Matejko), 83 Battle of Warsaw (1920), 17 Bazar Na Kole (Koło Bazaar; Warsaw), 91 Bazar Ró9yckiego (Russian Bazaar; Warsaw), 90 Bazylika Mariacka (St. Mary s Church; Gda^sk), 232 Beaches Hel Peninsula, 247, 248 249 Sopot and Gdynia, 243 Beer, 7, 28 Beł9extreme death camp, 172 173 Benedicte (Gda^sk), 240 Białowie9a, 274 279 Białowie9a National Park, 274 277 Bicycles for Poland, 37 Biebrza Eco-Travel (Goniºdz), 270 Biebrza^ski National Park, 270 Bigos, 27 Biking, 37 Białowie9a, 275, 277 Gda^sk, 229 Giant Mountains (Szklarska Por7ba), 9 Kazimierz Dolny, 179 Kraków, 121, 146 Łód3, 101 Lublin, 165 Mazurian Lake District, 265 266 Słowi^ski National Park, 250 Sopot, 243 244 Suwałki Lake District, 268, 269 Szklarska Por7ba, 198 Tarnów, 160 Warsaw, 65 Wrocław, 185 Zakopane, 152 Bird-watching, Suwałki Lake District, 270 Birkenau. See Auschwitz- Birkenau concentration camp Biskupin, 218 219 Bison grass vodka, 6, 276 Bison Reserve (Rezerwat Pokazowy Zwierzºt; Białowie9a), 275 276 Black Madonna icon (Miraculous Painting of Our Lady; Cz7stochowa), 1, 105, 106 107 Blue (movie), 22 Blue Note Jazz Club (Pozna^), 215 Blue Trail, 265 Boating. See also Canoeing; Kayaking; Sailing Kazimierz Dolny, 179 Sopot, 243 Boat tours, Elblºg-Ostróda Canal (Kanał Ostrodzko- Elblaski), 256 257 Bohaterów Monte Cassino (Sopot), 242 Bolesławiec Company Store (Warsaw), 92 Books, recommended, 23 24 Bookstores Kraków, 131 132 Warsaw, 92 Borderland Foundation, 271 Borowski, Tadeusz, 23, 25 Boruni (Kraków), 132 Bracia Łopie^scy (Warsaw), 92 Brama Krakowska (Kraków Gate; Lublin), 165 166 Brama Mariacka (Gda^sk), 240 Brama Strace^ (Gate of Execution; Warsaw), 80 Breakfast, 27 Brill, Steven, 31 Brody, Adrien, 86 BrowArmia (Warsaw), 94 Browning, Christopher R., 25 Budget car-rental agency, 65 Business hours, 280 Warsaw, 65 Bus travel, 34 36 Café Absinthe (Gda^sk), 241 Café Ferber (Sopot), 246 Café Kulturalna (Warsaw), 95 Calendar of events, 32 33 Camera repair, Warsaw, 65 Campanile, 47 Camping along the Krutynia River, 265 Chałupy, 249 Łeba, 252 Camp Solar (Chałupy), 249 Canada, 31 health insurance, 39 passports, 283 Canoeing Mazurian Lake District, 264 266 Suwałki Lake District, 268 269 Carbon offsetting, 44 Car-rental agencies, toll-free numbers and websites, 286 287 Car rentals green-friendly, 44 Warsaw, 65 Carriage or sleigh rides (Białowie9a), 276 277 Car travel, 33, 35 Auschwitz, 147 Beł9ec, 173 Białowie9a, 274 Biskupin, 219 Cieszyn, 113 Cz7stochowa, 106 295

296 Car travel (cont.) Elblºg, 256 Gda^sk, 226 Gniezno, 216 Hel Peninsula, 248 Jelenia Góra, 196 Kraków, 120 Ksiº9 Castle, 192 Łód3, 100 Lublin, 165 Majdanek, 172 Malbork, 253 Mazurian Lake District, 261 Pozna^, 206 sample driving times between major cities, 36 Tarnów, 157 Toru^, 220 Warsaw, 63 Wieliczka, 145 Wrocław, 185 Zakopane, 150 Zamo1æ, 174 Castle (Zamek; Lublin), 166 Castle Culture Center (Centrum Kultury Zamek; Pozna^), 207 Castle Hill (Góra Zamkowa; Cieszyn), 114 Castles, best, 11 Catamaran sailing, 243, 248 249 Cathedral Tarnów, 158 Zamo15, 175 Cathedral Island (Ostrów Tumski; Wrocław), 187 Cathedral of St. John the Baptist & St. John the Evangelist (Katedra 2wi7tego Janów; Toru^), 221 Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul (Katedra 2w. Piotra i Pawła), 207 Cesky Těšín Regional Information Center (Cieszyn), 114 Celej s House (Muzeum Kamienica Celejowska; Kazimierz Dolny), 179 Cell phones, 45 Central Bus Station (Kraków), 120 Central Maritime Museum (Gda^sk), 229 230 Central Post Office (Warsaw), 66 Central Station (Warszawa Centralna; Warsaw), 63 Cepelia (Warsaw), 92 Cepelia (Zakopane), 156 Cerkiew 2w. Marii Magdaleny (Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene; Warsaw), 87 Champions Sports Bar (Warsaw), 94 Chapel of Skulls (Kłodzko), 202 203 Chapel of the Holy Trinity (Lublin), 167 Chapel of the Holy Virgin Mary (Cz7stochowa), 107 Cheese, smoked sheep s (Oscypek), 6, 156 Children, families with, 41 42 Warsaw playgrounds, 87 Chopin, Frédéric, 20, 21, 26, 81 0elazowa Wola, 89 90 Chopin Academy (0elazowa Wola), 90 Chopin Luxury (Warsaw), 93 Chopin Museum (Warsaw), 81 Chopin Salon (Warsaw), 81 Churches. See also specific churches best, 11 Church of Mary Magdalene (Ko1ciół 2w. Marii Magdaleny; Wrocław), 186 Church of Our Lady (2wi7ta Lipka), 262 Church of St. Clement (Zakopane), 151 Church of Saints Peter and Paul (Ko1ciół 2w. Piotra i Pawla; Kraków), 124 Ciasteczka z Krakowa (Kraków), 132 Cieszyn, 113 115 Cieszyn Information Center, 114 Cinematography, Museum of (Łód3), 10 The Cinnamon (Highbn), 95 The Citadel (Cytadela; Warsaw), 80 City Information Center (Cz7stochowa), 106 CiuCiu Cukier Artist (Gda^sk), 240 241 Classic Travel (Kraków), 131 Clear Pass, 31 Climate, 32 Cloth Hall (Sukiennice; Kraków), 121 122, 125, 132 Cmentarz 0ydowski (Jewish Cemetery; Łód3), 102 Cmentarz 0ydowski (Jewish Cemetery; Warsaw), 86 Coffee, 27 Commandant of Auschwitz: The Autobiography of Rudolf Hoess (Hoess), 25 Communist Party, former headquarters of the (Warsaw), 82 Communist period, 6, 19 anti-communist riots in Pozna^ (1956), 204 books of, 23 24 Gda^sk, 227 Łód3, 99 Contact with poles, 14 Copacabana Lounge & Summer SPA (Sopot), 247 Copernicus, Nicolaus, 20, 220 Cormorant Island, 264 Cracow City Tours, 131 Cracow Poster Gallery (Kraków), 132 Crafts Kraków, 132 Warsaw, 92 93 Crane (0uraw; Gda^sk), 230 Crazy Guides (Kraków), 131 Credit cards, 38 Crime, 40 Crooked House (Sopot), 242 Crown Treasury and Armory (Kraków), 126, 127 Cruising Kraków bike tours, 121 Cuisine, 7, 26 Suwałki Lake District, 273 Cukiernia Gruszecki (Pozna^), 214 Cukiernia Lodziarnia (Reszel), 262 Cultural Information Center (Kraków), 143 Currency and currency exchange, 37 38 Warsaw, 65 66 Customs regulations, 30 32 Cute (Pozna^), 215 Cybulski, Zbigniew, 98

Cycling. See Biking Cytadela (The Citadel; Warsaw), 80 Czarna Ha^cza River, 270 Czartoryski Museum (Muzeum Ksiº9ºt Czartorzyskich; Kraków), 10, 124 Czekolada (Lublin), 171 Czernina, 213 Cz7stochowa, 105 109 Cz7stochowa Museum, 107 Dargin, Lake, 264 D7by Królewskie (Royal Oaks; Białowie9a), 275 Decalogue (movie), 22 Deep vein thrombosis (economy class syndrome), 39 Desa Unicum (Warsaw), 91 Dietary red flags, 38 Dining. See Eating and drinking; Food and cuisine; Restaurants Dinner, 27 Diocesan Museum (Tarnów), 158, 159 160 Długa and Długi Targ (The Royal Route: The Long Street and Long Market; Gda^sk), 231 Długa Street (Gda^sk), 1 Długie Pobrze9e (Long Waterfront; Gda^sk), 230 Dobskie, Lake, 264 Doctors and dentists, Warsaw, 66 Dominican Church and Monastery (Lublin), 166, 167 Dom Mikołaja Kopernika (House of Nicolaus Copernicus; Toru^), 220 The Double Life of Veronique (movie), 22 Drinking beer from a straw, 7 Drinking laws, 280 Drogi do Wolno15i (Roads to Freedom Exhibition; Gda^sk), 10, 226, 230 Drugs, illegal, 40 Dunajec River, rafting, 9 Dwór Artusa (Artus Court; Gda^sk), 229 Dworzec Autobusowy Warszawa Zachodnia (Warsaw), 63 Dworzec Główny (Kraków), 120 Dworzec PKP (Cz7stochowa), 106 Dworzec PKS (Cz7stochowa), 106 Dym (Kraków), 143 Dziesi7ciolecia Stadium (Russian Market; Warsaw), 90 Dzikie Mazury (near Gi9ycko), 265 Eating and drinking, 26 28. See also Food and cuisine; Food stores and markets; Restaurants Economy class syndrome (deep vein thrombosis), 39 Economy of Poland, 13 14 Eco-tourism, 43 44 Ecotravel, 43 EHIC (European Health Insurance Card), 40, 281 282 Eko-Tur (Wrocław), in, 187 Ela-Travel, 270 271 Elblºg, 256 258 Elblºg-Ostróda Canal (Kanał Ostrodzko-Elblaski), 256 257 Electricity, 280 Embassies and consulates, 66, 280 281 Emergencies, 39, 281 Warsaw, 66 Emperor s Castle (Zamek; Pozna^), 207 Empik Kraków, 132 Warsaw, 92 Emporium (Toru^), 222 Enigma Warsaw, 88 Enklawa (Warsaw), 95 Escape from Auschwitz: I Cannot Forgive (Vrba), 24 Eskada Sports and Recreational Center (Kraków), 146 Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne; Tarnów), 10 11, 159 Etiuda airport (Warsaw), 62 The euro, 13, 37 European Bison Sighting (Białowie9a), 276 European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), 40, 281 282 European Union, 13, 14, 20, 21 Fabryczna (Łód3), 100 Fabryka Trzciny (Warsaw), 95 Families with children, 41 42 Warsaw playgrounds, 87 Farmer s markets, 7 8 Fashions (clothing), Warsaw, 93 Fast food, 28 Fax machines, 284 F. H. Herbert (Kraków), 132 Filharmonia Narodowa (Warsaw), 94 Filharmonia Pozna^ska (Pozna^ Philharmonic), 215 Films, 21 23 Museum of Cinematography (Łód3), 102 First Warsaw Golf & Country Club, 87 Fishing Hel Peninsula, 248 Łeba, 251 252 Sopot, 244 Suwałki Lake District, 269 5 à Sec (Warsaw), 66 Floria^ska (Kraków), 122 Food and cuisine, 7, 26 Suwałki Lake District, 273 Food stores and markets farmer s markets, 7 8 Kraków, 132 Warsaw, 93 Football (soccer), Kraków, 146 Fotoplastikon (Warsaw), 81 82 Franciscan Church (Ko1ciół Franciszkanow; Kraków), 124 Frederic Chopin airport (Warsaw), 33 Friendship Bridge (Most Przyja3ni/Most Druzby; Cieszyn), 114 Fryderyk Chopin Airport (Ok7cie Airport; Warsaw), 62 Fryderyk Chopin Baltic Philharmonic (Gda^sk), 241 Fuerstenstein (Ksiº9) Castle (near Wałbrzych), 191 193 Furst, Alan, 24 Galeria AG (Kraków), 131 Galeria Autorska Andrzeja Mleczki (Warsaw), 91 Galeria Farbiarnia (Warsaw), 91 297

298 Galeria Kazimierz (Kraków), 132 Galeria Kinsky (Sopot), 246 Galeria Lnu (Warsaw), 92 Galeria Mokotów (Warsaw), 90 Galeria Ora (Kraków), 132 Galeria Plakatu (Warsaw), 91 Galeria S&A (Gda^sk), 240 Galeria Sztuki Katarzyny Napiórkowskiej (Warsaw), 91 Galicia Jewish Museum (0ydowskiego Muzeum Galicja; Kraków), 10, 128 Gasoline, 281 Gate of Execution (Brama Strace^; Warsaw), 80 GayGuide.net, 41 Gays and lesbians, 41 Warsaw, 96 Golf First Warsaw Golf & Country Club, 87 Kraków, 146 Tri-City area, 244 Góra Zamkowa (Castle Hill; Cieszyn), 114 Gothic castle (Zamek Reszel), 262 Graciarnia (Wrocław), 191 Great Square (Rynek Wielki; Zamo15), 175 Green Gate (Gda^sk), 231 Grodzka (Kraków), 122 Grodzka Gate (Lublin), 166 Grodzka Gate Theatre NN Centre (Lublin), 166 Gypsies (Roma), 101 Ethnographic Museum (Tarnów), 10 11, 159 restaurant (Tarnów), 161 History of Poland, 12 21 Communist period and the rise of Solidarity, 19 early kings, 16 since 1989, 20 21 World War I and independence, 17 World War II and the Holocaust, 17 19 The History of Polish Literature (Miłosz), 25 Hobbit, 269 Holidays, 281 The Holocaust, 18 books about, 24 25 Holy Cross Church (Warsaw), 81 Horseback riding, Łeba, 252 Hospitals, 281 Hotels. See also Accommodations Index Gda^sk, 225 241 best, 2 accommodations, 235 237 Białowie9a area, 277 279 getting around, 228 Hala Mirowska (Warsaw), Camping Le1ny No. 51 history of, 225 227 layout of, 228 nightlife, 241 restaurants, 237 240 shopping, 1, 240 241 229 234 traveling to, 226 227 visitor information, 227 228 Gda^sk Accords (1980), 19, 20 Gda^sk-Orłowo beach, 243 Gdynia, 241 247 Gestapo Headquarters (Mauzoleum Walki i M7cze^stwa; Warsaw), 82 Giant Mountains (Szklarska Por7ba), 9 Gifts and souvenirs, best, 6 Gingerbread, 6 Toru^, 222 Gingerbread Museum (Muzeum Piernika; Toru^), 10, 221 Gi9ycko, 259 260 Glassware, Warsaw, 92 Gniezno, 215 218 Gniezno Cathedral, 216 217 Golden Gate (Gda^sk), 231 Goldwasser Vodka (Gda^sk), 240 90 91 Hala Targowa (Wrocław), 187 Halo Taxi (Cieszyn), 114 Harenda ski area (Zakopane), 152 Health Canada, 39, 281 Health concerns, 38 40 jet lag, 35 Health insurance, 39, 281 282 Hel Peninsula, 247 250 Heritage Trail of the Lublin Jews, 166 Hertz, 65 High Synagogue (Synagoga Wysoka; Kraków), 128 The High Tatra Mountains, 116 exploring, 152 Hiking Historia Muzeum Historyczne Miasta Krakowa (Historical Museum of the City of Kraków), 124 Historical Museum of Pozna^, 208 Historical Museum of the City of Kraków (Historia Muzeum Historyczne Miasta Krakowa), 124 History of Łód3 Museum, 102 (Łeba), 252 Cieszyn, 115 Cz7stochowa, 107 108 Elblºg, 258 Gda^sk, 235 237 Gniezno, 217 green, 44 Hel Peninsula, 249 250 hotel chains, 47 Hotel Gołºbek (Łeba), 252 Hotel Neptun (Łeba), 252 253 Jawor, 195 Jelenia Góra, 199 Kazimierz Dolny, 179 180 Kraków, 132 138 Ksiaz Castle/Wałbrzych, 194 Łeba, 252 253 Łód3, 103 104 Lublin, 168 169 Malbork area, 254 255 Pod Zegarem (Łeba), 252 Pozna^, 209 212 private, 48 Sopot, 244 245 2widnica, 194 Szklarska Por7ba, 200 Tarnów, 160 161 tips on, 47 48 toll-free numbers and websites, 287

Toru^, 222 223 Warsaw, 67 74 Wrocław, 188 189 Zakopane, 153 155 Zamo15, 176 177 Hotlines, 281 House of Nicolaus Copernicus (Dom Mikołaja Kopernika; Toru^), 220 Hunting, Mazurian Lake District, 265 Ice cream, 7 Ice sailing, 269 270 Immigration and customs clearance, 33 Incognito (Warsaw), 66 Independence of Poland, 17 Inland Empire (movie), 23 Insurance, 281 282 Integracja, 41 The International Ecotourism Society (TIES), 43 International Sopot Festival, 243 International Student Identity Card (ISIC), 42 International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC), 42 International Youth Travel Card (IYTC), 42 Internet access, 46 47, 282 Warsaw, 66 Ireland embassies and consulates, 281 passports, 283 Isaak Synagogue (Kraków), 128 Itineraries, suggested, 49 61 for families, 54 five-day scenic drive, 57 59 Jewish heritage, 55 57 in one week, 49 52 in two weeks, 52 54 IYTC (International Youth Travel Card), 42 Janowiec Castle (Muzeum Zamek w Janowcu; Kazimierz Dolny), 179 Jasna Góra Information Center (Cz7stochowa), 106 Jasna Góra Monastery (Cz7stochowa), 1 2, 97, 105, 106 107 Jawor Peace Churches of, 1, 57, 191, 193 restaurant, 195 Jelenia Góra, 196 201 accommodations, 199 restaurants, 200 Jet lag, 35 Jewelry, Warsaw, 93 Jewish Cemetery (Cmentarz 0ydowski) Łód3, 102 Warsaw, 86 Jewish community, 16, 18, 21. See also Synagogues Beł9ec death camp, 172 173 Galicia Jewish Museum (Kraków-Kazimierz), 10 the Holocaust, 18, 24 25 Kraków (Kazimierz), 117, 127 129 Łód3, 98, 100, 101 102 Lublin, 163 164, 166 Majdanek concentration camp, 171 172 Museum of Fighting and Martyrdom (Treblinka), 89 Stutthof (Sztutowo) Death Camp (Gda^sk), 234 suggested itinerary, 55 Tarnów, 158, 159 Treblinka extermination camp, 89 Warsaw, 85 86 Zamo15, 174 176 Jewish Cultural Festival (Kraków), 33 Jewish Historical Institute and Museum (0ydowski Instytut Historyczny; Warsaw), 85 Jewish Landmarks in Łód3, 100 Jewish Theater (Teatr 0ydowski; Warsaw), 94 Jewish Warsaw (walking-tour itinerary), 63 John Paul II, Pope, 19, 20, 118 Archdiocesan Museum (Kraków), 122 Franciscan Church (Ko1ciół Franciszkanow; Kraków), 124 John Paul II International Airport (Kraków), 119 Joka car-rental agency, 65 Jordanowski Garden (Warsaw), playground, 87 Joytrip.pl (Gda^sk), 234 Kaczy^ski, Lech, 13 Kalimba i Kofifi (Warsaw), 93 Kampio (Warsaw), 265 Kanał Augustowski (Augustów Canal), 268, 270 Kapu1ci^ski, Ryszard, 24 Karkonosze Museum (Muzeum Karkonoskie; Jelenia Góra), 197 Karkonosze National Park, 196 198 Karpacz, 197 198 Kashubian folk art (Gda^sk), 240 Katedra Oliwska (Oliwa Cathedral; Gda^sk), 234 Katedra 2wi7tego Janów (Cathedral of St. John the Baptist & St. John the Evangelist; Toru^), 221 Katedra 2w. Piotra i Pawła (Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul), 207 Katedra Wawelska (Wawel Cathedral and Cathedral Museum; Kraków), 126 127 Katowice, 8, 109 113 Katowice, In Your Pocket, 8, 109 Katy^ (movie), 22 Katy^ forest massacre, 18 Museum (Warsaw), 79 Kawiarnia u Hrabiego (Sopot), 246 Kayaking Mazurian Lake District, 9, 264 265 Suwałki Lake District, 268 269 Kazimierz (Kraków), 8, 117, 118, 127 129 Kazimierz Dolny, 178 181 Keneally, Thomas, 118, 130 Kensington Tours, 45 K7trzyn, 265 Khaja Brush Workshop (Warsaw), 92 299

300 Kieslowski, Krzysztof, 22 restaurants, 138 143 Łód3, 8, 97 105 shopping, 131 132 121 131 suggested itineraries, 51, 57 visitor information, 120 Kraków Aqua Park (Park Wodny), 146 Kraków Gate (Brama Krakowska; Lublin), 165 166 Krakowskie Przedmieocie (Warsaw), 79 Krakowski Kredens Kraków, 132 Warsaw, 93 Kraków Zoo, 145 Krasi^kich Garden (Warsaw), playground, 87 Krosno (Warsaw), 92 Kruty^, 261 Krutynia River, 264 Ksantypa (Gda^sk), 241 Ksiº9 (Fuerstenstein) Castle (near Wałbrzych), 191 193 Ksiº9 Castle (Wałbrzych), 11 Kwaoniewski, Aleksander, 13 Kwidzyn castle and cathedral, 254 Kwidzyn Museum, 254 Kite surfing, 248 249 Klasztor Starowierców (Old Believers Monastery; Ukta), 262 Klezmer music festival (Sejny), 271 Kłodzko, 201 203 Kłodzko Fortress, 11, 202 Klubokawiarnia (Warsaw), 95 Knife in the Water (movie), 22 Koło Bazaar (Bazar Na Kole; Warsaw), 91 Koneser Vodka Factory (Wytwórnia Wódek Koneser; Warsaw), 87 Kon-Tiki (Sopot), 246 Konwicki, Tadeusz, 23 Kopalnia Soli Wieliczka (Wieliczka Salt Mine), 144, 145 Kopernik (Toru^), 222 Kopiec Ko1ciuszki (Ko1ciuszko Mound; Kraków), 146 Kórnik, 209 Kórnik Castle, 209 Ko1ciół Franciszkanow (Franciscan Church; Kraków), 124 Ko1ciół Mariacki (St. Mary s Cathedral; Kraków), 11, 125 Ko1ciół Mariacki (St. Mary s Church; Kraków), 121, 122 Ko1ciół 2w. El9biety (St. Elizabeth Church; Wrocław), 186 Ko1ciół 2w. Marii Magdaleny (Church of Mary Magdalene; Wrocław), 186 Ko1ciół 2w. Piotra i Pawla (Church of Saints Peter and Paul; Kraków), 124 Ko1ciół 2w. Stanisława (Parish Church; Pozna^), 208 209 Ko1ciuszko Mound (Kopiec Ko1ciuszki; Kraków), 146 Kosinski, Jerzy, 24 Krakow, suggested itineraries, 54 Kraków, 116 144 accommodations, 132 138 cafes, 142 143 getting around, 121 history of, 117 layout of, 120 nightlife, 143 144 La Dolce Vita (Gda^sk), 241 Las Wolski (Wolski Woods; Kraków), 145 Lawica International Airport (Pozna^), 205 Łazienki Park (Warsaw), 81 playground, 87 Leather goods, Warsaw, 93 Łeba, 250 253 Lech Brewery Visitor Center (Pozna^), 207 208 Lech Wał7sa International Airport (Gda^sk), 226 Legal aid, 282 Legenda (Lublin), 171 Lem, Stanisław, 24 Levi, Primo, 24 LIM Medical Center (Warsaw), 40, 66 Limocars Executive Services (Warsaw), 65, 88 Lithuania, 20, 164 Litzmannstadt (Łód3 Ghetto), 101 102 accommodations, 103 104 getting around, 100 101 layout of, 100 nightlife, 105 restaurants, 104 105 shopping, 102 103 101 102 traveling to, 100 visitor information, 100 Łód3 Art Museum (Muzeum Sztuki w Łód3i), 10, 102 The Łód3 Ghetto (Litzmannstadt), 101 102 Łód3 Kaliska, 105 Lolek (Warsaw), 94 Long Waterfront (Długie Pobrze9e; Gda^sk), 230 Lost and found, 282 283 LOT, 35 LRCompany (Warsaw), 88 Lublin, 162 171 accommodations, 168 169 getting around, 165 history of, 162 164 layout of, 165 nightlife, 170 171 restaurants, 169 170 shopping, 168 165 167 traveling to, 164 165 visitor information, 165 Lublin Castle, 167 Lublin Museum, 166 167 Lublin Philharmonic Orchestra, 170 171 Lublin Plaza, 168 Lublin Village Open Air Museum (Skansen; Lublin), 167 Łukowy Kºt (Lake Wigry), 269 Luksfera (Warsaw), 91 Lunch, 27 Lynch, David, 98 Maciej Zie^ (Warsaw), 93 Magazyn Praga (Warsaw), 92 Magma (Lublin), 171 Mail, 283 Majdanek concentration camp, 171 172 Malbork, 253 256

Malbork Castle, 11, 253 254 Mamry, Lake, 260 Mandarynka (Sopot), 246 Man of Iron (movie), 22 Man of Marble (movie), 22 Manufaktura (Łód3), 103 Manufaktura Królewska (Warsaw), 93 Man With a Camera (movie), 22 Marszałkowska Street (Warsaw), 82 Massolit (Kraków), 131 132 Match Production Museum (Cz7stochowa), 107 Matejko, Jan, 83 Mauzoleum Walki i M7cze^stwa (Gestapo Headquarters; Warsaw), 82 Mazurian Lake District, 259 267 Mazurian Landscape Park, 265 Mazurkas Travel (Warsaw), 88 Meals, 27 Medical care, 38, 39 Medical conditions, 283 Medical insurance, 39 40, 281 282 Medical requirements for entry, 30 Merc Radio Taxi (Łód3), 101 Merc Taxi (Warsaw), 65 Metro (subway; Warsaw), 65 Michener, James A., 14 16, 24 Mickiewicz, Adam, Museum (Warsaw), 79 Miel9y^ski Wine Bar (Warsaw), 95 Mieszko I, Duke, 16, 20 Mikołajki, 259 260 Milk bars, 6 Warsaw, 76 Millennium Gallery (Gda^sk), 240 Miłosz, Czesław, 25 Miniatura Theater (Gda^sk), 241 Ministerstwo (Kraków), 144 Ministry of Agriculture (Warsaw), 82 Miodówka, 6, 28 Miraculous Painting of Our Lady (Black Madonna), 1, 105, 106 107 Misguides (Warsaw), 88 Młoda Polska (Young Poland) movement, 117, 125 Mobile phones, 45 Mokotowska Street (Warsaw), 90 Molo (Pier; Sopot), 242 Molo Południowe (Southern Pier; Gdynia), 243 Moment (Kraków), 144 Money and costs, 37 38 Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers (Gda^sk), 230 Monument to the Ghetto Heroes (Pomnik Bohaterów Getta; Warsaw), 85 Monument to the Warsaw Uprising (Warsaw), 84 Morando, Bernardo, 174 176 Mosquitoes, 38 Most Przyja3ni/Most Druzby (Friendship Bridge; Cieszyn), 114 Motława Canal (Gda^sk), 230 Movies, 21 23 Museum of Cinematography (Łód3), 102 MUFA Warsaw Tourist Information Center, 63 Museum and Memorial Site at Belzec, 173 Museum of Cieszyn Silesia (Muzeum 2lºska Cieszy^skiego), 114 Museum of Cinematography (Łód3), 10, 102 Museum of Fighting and Martyrdom (Treblinka), 89 Museum of Goldsmithery (Muzeum Sztuki Zlotniczej; Kazimierz Dolny), 179 Museum of Lublin History, 167 Museum of Modern Art (Warsaw), 94 Museum of Sports and Tourism in Karpacz (Muzeum Sportu i Turystyki w Karpaczu), 198 Museum of Technology (Muzeum Techniki; Warsaw), 10, 82 83 Museum of the History of Nowa Huta (Kraków), 130 131 Museum of the History of Polish Jews (Warsaw), 85 Museum of the Warsaw Uprising (Warsaw), 10 Museum of Zakopane Style (Muzeum Stylu Zakopa^skiego), 10, 151 Mushroom picking, 7 Music, 25 26 Musical Instruments Museum (Pozna^), 206 Muzeum Etnograficzne (Ethnographic Museum; Tarnów), 159 Muzeum Farmacji (Pharmacy Museum; Kraków), 124 Muzeum Kamienica Celejowska (Celej s House; Kazimierz Dolny), 179 Muzeum Karkonoskie (Karkonosze Museum; Jelenia Góra), 197 Muzeum Ksiº9ºt Czartorzyskich (Czartoryski Museum; Kraków), 124 Muzeum Narodowe (National Museum; Warsaw), 83 Muzeum Narodowe (National Museum; Wrocław), 187 Muzeum Oceanograficzne i Akwarium (Oceanographic Museum & Aquarium; Gdynia), 243 Muzeum Piernika (Gingerbread Museum; Toru^), 221 Muzeum Plakatu (Poster Museum; Potockiego), 89 Muzeum Powstania Warszawskiego (Warsaw Uprising Museum; Warsaw), 84 85 Muzeum 2lºska Cieszy^skiego (Museum of Cieszyn Silesia), 114 Muzeum Sportu i Turystyki w Karpaczu (Museum of Sports and Tourism in Karpacz), 198 Muzeum Stylu Zakopa^skiego (Museum of Zakopane Style), 151 Muzeum Sztuki w Łód3i (Łód3 Art Museum), 102 301

302 Muzeum Sztuki Zlotniczej Nowa Huta Steelworks, 116 Ostoya (Warsaw), 91 Nowy Cmentarz (New Cemetery; Kraków), 128 Nowy 2wiat (Warsaw), 79 No9yk Synagogue (Synagog No9yków; Warsaw), 86 (Museum of Goldsmithery; Kazimierz Dolny), 179 Muzeum Tatrza^skie (Tatra Museum; Zakopane), 151 Muzeum Techniki (Museum of Technology; Warsaw), 10, 82 83 Muzeum Zamek w Janowcu (Janowiec Castle; Kazimierz Dolny), 179 Napoleon, 17 National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe; Warsaw), 83 National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe; Wrocław), 187 National Museum: Paintings and Sculpture Gallery (Pozna^), 208 Natural History Museum (Białowie9a), 275 Navigo (Sopot), 243 Nazi era. See World War II and German occupation Nazi Germany. See World War II and German occupation Neptune Fountain (Gda^sk), 231 New Cemetery (Nowy Cmentarz; Kraków), 128 Newspapers and magazines, 283 New Town (Nowe Miasto; Warsaw), 79 New Warsaw Express, 66 New Zealand customs regulations, 32 passports, 284 Nic Nowego (Kraków), 144 Nicolaus Copernicus Airport (Wrocław), 184 Nidzkie, Lake, 264 Niegocin, Lake, 260 Night Guides (Warsaw), 88 Nightlife Gda^sk, 241 Łód3, 105 Lublin, 170 171 Pozna^, 215 Sopot, 246 247 Toru^, 224 Warsaw, 94 96 Wrocław, 191 Northeast Poland, 259 278 Nowa Huta (Kraków), 8, 129 131 Oaks of Rogalin, 209 Obiekt Znaleziony (Warsaw), 96 Oceanographic Museum & Aquarium (Muzeum Oceanograficzne i Akwarium; Gdynia), 243 Okartowo, 263 Ok7cie Airport (Fryderyk Chopin Airport; Warsaw), 62 Old Believers Monastery (Klasztor Starowierców; Ukta), 262 Old Lubelska Gate (Zamo15), 175 Old Lwowska Gate (Zamo15), 175 176 Old Synagogue (Stara Synagoga; Kraków), 128 Old Town Kraków, 120 121 125 Tarnów, 158 Warsaw, 64, 79 79 85 Old Town Hall Lublin, 166 Pozna^, 208 Toru^, 221 Oliwa Cathedral (Katedra Oliwska; Gda^sk), 234 Opera, Warsaw, 94 Opera in Słowacki Theater (Kraków), 143 Opera Park (Opera Le1na; Sopot), 243 Orbis, 47 The Origins of the Final Solution (Browning), 25 Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene (Cerkiew 2w. Marii Magdaleny; Warsaw), 87 Oscypek (smoked sheep s cheese), 6, 156 Oskar Schindler s Emalia Factory (Kraków), 129 Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island; Wrocław), 186, 187 Outdoor vacations, suggested itineraries, 59 61 Package tours, 45 Palace of Culture and Science (Palac Kultury i Nauki; Warsaw), 6, 82, 83 Palace on the Water (Warsaw), 81 Palace Park (Park Pałacowy; Białowie9a), 275 Palac Krzysztofory (Kraków), 124 Panorama Bar (Warsaw), 95 Panorama of the Battle of Racławice (Panorama Racławicka; Wrocław), 186 Paparazzi (Zakopane), 156 PapryKA (Sopot), 247 Parish Church (Ko1ciół 2w. Stanisłalimony awards and; Pozna^), 208 Parking, 48 Park Pałacowy (Palace Park; Białowie9a), 275 Park S. 0eromskiego (Warsaw), playground, 87 Park Wodny (Kraków Aqua Park), 146 Passports, 30, 283 284 Pauza (Kraków), 144 Pawiak Prison (Warsaw), 83 84 Peace Churches of 2widnica and Jawor, 1, 57, 191, 193 Pedicabs, Łód3, 100 Petrol, 281 Pewex (Warsaw), 95 Pharaoh (movie), 251 Pharmacies, 38 Pharmacy Museum (Muzeum Farmacji; Kraków), 11, 124 Pharmacy Under the Eagle (Apteka Pod Orłem; Kraków), 129 Philharmonic Hall (Kraków), 143 The Pianist (movie), 22, 86, 130 Piano Bar (Zakopane), 156 Piast Route (Szlak Piastowski), 216 Pier (Molo; Sopot), 242

Pierniczek (Toru^), 222 Pierogi, 26 27, 42 best places to get, 5 types of, 28 Pigeons, feeding breadcrumbs to, 7 Piłsudski, Józef, 17 Piłsudski Mound (Kraków), 145 146 Piotrkowska (Łód3), 99 Piwnica Pod Aniołem (Toru^), 224 Pizza, 28 Plac Bohaterów Getta (Kraków), 129 Placki (potato pancakes), 27 Plac Konstytucji (Warsaw), 82 Plac Nowy (Kraków), 127 Plac Solny (Wrocław), 186 Plac Trzech Krzy9y (Warsaw), 90 Plac Unii Lubelskiej (Warsaw), 82 Planning your trip, 29 48 customs regulations, 30 32 getting around, 35 37 health concerns, 38 40 money and costs, 37 38 package tours, 45 passports and visas, 30 pre-departure checklist, 30 safety concerns, 40 41 specialized travel resources, 41 42 sustainable tourism, 43 44 traveling to Poland, 33 35 visitor information, 29 when to go, 32 Platerland (Warsaw), 93 Platinium Club (Warsaw), 96 Playgrounds, Warsaw, 87 Podgórze (Kraków), 129 Poland (Michener), 14 16, 24 Poland Monthly, 66 Pola^ski, Roman, 22, 86, 130 Police, 284 Polish National Tourist Board, 29 Polish National Tourist Office, 29 Politics, domestic, 13 Polka, 25 26 Polska Walczy (Poland Fights), 83 Polski Express, 36 Polski Teatr Ta^ca (Pozna^), 215 Pomnik Bohaterów Getta (Monument to the Ghetto Heroes; Warsaw), 85 Poster Museum (Muzeum Plakatu; Potockiego), 89 Post offices, Warsaw, 66 Pottery and ceramics, Warsaw, 92 Powºzki Cemetery (Warsaw), 84 Pozna^, 16, 204 215 accommodations, 209 212 attractions, 206 209 getting around, 206 history of, 204 205 nightlife, 215 restaurants, 212 215 shopping, 209 traveling to, 205 206 visitor information, 206 Pozna^ Model, 206 Pozna^ Philharmonic (Filharmonia Pozna^ska), 215 Pracownia Cukiernia Słodki Kºcik (Pozna^), 214 Praga district (Warsaw), 8 9 exploring, 86 87 Prostitution, 40 Protestant churches ( Peace churches; 2widnica and Jawor), 1, 57, 191, 193 Przysta^ Rybacka w Sopocie (Sopot), 242 Qubus, 47 Radogoszcz Prison (Łód3), 102 Rafting Dunajec River (near Zakopane), 9 Zakopane, 152 153 Rail travel, 34, 35 36 Rasko (Warsaw), 96 Ratusz. See Town Hall Ratusz Staromiejski (Old Town Hall), Toru^, 221 Rdza (Kraków), 144 Red (movie), 22 Red Route (Mazurian Lake District), 265 Remuh Synagogue and Cemetery (Synagoga i Cmentarz Remuh; Kraków), 128 129 Renaissance Trail (Tarnów), 158 Repulsion (movie), 22 Respiratory illnesses, 39 Responsible Travel, 43 Restaurants, 27 28. See also Restaurants Index Augustów, 273 best, 4 Biskupin, 219 Cieszyn, 115 Cz7stochowa, 108 109 Gda^sk, 237 240 Gniezno, 218 green-friendly, 44 Jelenia Góra, 200 Kazimierz Dolny, 181 Kraków, 138 143 Łód3, 104 105 Lublin, 169 170 Pozna^, 212 215 Sopot, 245 246 Sphinx, 8 Szklarska Por7ba/Karpacz, 200 201 Tarnów, 161 Toru^, 223 224 Warsaw, 74 78 Wrocław, 190 191 Zakopane, 155 156 Zamo15, 177 178 Reszel, 262 Reymont, Władysław, 84 Rezerwat Archeologiczny (Archaeological Reserve; Biskupin), 219 Rezerwat Pokazowy Zwierzºt (Bison Reserve; Białowie9a), 275 276 Roads to Freedom Exhibition (Drogi do Wolno15i; Gda^sk), 10, 226, 230 Rogale 2wi7to Marci^skie, 214 Rogalin, 209 Rogalin Palace, 209 Roleski Ranch (Tarnów), 160 Roma (Gypsies), 101 Ethnographic Museum (Tarnów), 10 11, 159 restaurant (Tarnów), 161 Ro1, Lake, 264 Rosemary s Baby (movie), 22 Rospuda River, 270 The Rotunda Museum of Martyrdom (Zamo15), 176 Royal Castle (Zamek Królewski; Warsaw), 79 80 303

304 The Royal Kraków Golf & Country Club, 146 Royal Oaks (D7by Królewskie; Białowie9a), 275 Royal Private Apartments (Kraków), 126, 127 The Royal Route: The Long Street and Long Market (Długa and Długi Targ; Gda^sk), 231 Royal Route (Warsaw), 79 79 85 Royal Tombs (Kraków), 126 Ruciane-Nida, 260 Russia, 16, 17 Russian Bazaar (Bazar Ró9yckiego; Warsaw), 90 Russian Market (Dziesi7ciolecia Stadium; Warsaw), 90 Rynek Główny (Kraków), 1, 121 Rynek Wielki (Great Square; Zamo15), 175 Saxon Garden (Ogród Saski), playground, 87 Scenic drives, suggested itinerary, 57 59 Schindler, 118 119 Schindler, Oskar, 129 Oskar Schindler s Emalia Factory (Kraków), 129 Schindler s Ark (Keneally), 118, 130 Schindler s List (movie), 22, 118, 130 Schulz, Bruno, 23 Scuba diving, 244 Sefinir (Sopot), 247 Sejny, 271 Senior travel, 41 Shock therapy, 20 Shopping Gda^sk, 240 241 Kraków, 131 132 Lublin, 168 Pozna^, 209 Warsaw, 90 93 Stare Miasto (Old Town; Warsaw), 64, 79 79 85 Stary Ratusz (Old Town Hall; Lublin), 166 State Baltic Opera (Gda^sk), 241 State Museum at Majdanek, 172 State Rooms and Royal Private Apartments (Kraków), 127 STA Travel, 42 StayPoland (Warsaw), 88 Storks, 260 Strictly Protected Area (SPA; Obszar Ochrony 2cisłej), 276 Student travel, 42 Stutthof (Sztutowo) Death Camp (Gda^sk), 234 Styron, William, 22 Subway (metro; Warsaw), 65 Zakopane, 156 Sukiennice (Cloth Hall; Silverware, Warsaw, 93 Kraków), 121 122, Safety, Warsaw, 66 Single travelers, 42 125, 132 Safety concerns, 40 41 Sailing, 263 264 catamaran, 243, 248 249 ice, 269 270 Sailor (Pi7kna Góra), 264 St. Clement, Church of (Zakopane), 151 St. Elizabeth Church (Ko1ciół 2w. El9biety; Wrocław), 11, 186 St. Mary s Cathedral (Ko1ciół Mariacki; Kraków), 11, 125 St. Mary s Church (Bazylika Mariacka; Gda^sk), 11, 232 St. Mary s Church (Ko1ciół Mariacki; Kraków), 121, 122 St. Mary s Street (ul. Mariacka; Gda^sk), 232 Saints Peter and Paul, Cathedral of (Katedra 2w. Piotra i Pawła; Pozna^), 207 Saints Peter and Paul, Church of (Ko1ciół 2w. Piotra i Pawla; Kraków), 124 Sala Kongresowa (Warsaw), 94 Salt from the Wieliczka Salt Mine (Kraków), 6 Sand, George, 26 Sawart (Warsaw), 92 Skiing, 9 Szklarska Por7ba and Karpacz, 199 Zakopane, 152 Skłodowksa-Curie, Maria, Museum (Warsaw), 79 Skype, 46 Słowi^ski National Park, 250 251 Smoked sheep s cheese (Oscypek), 6, 156 Smoking, 284 2niardwy, Lake, 260, 264 Socialist-Realist style offices, Warsaw, 82 Solaris (Stanisław), 24 Solidarity trade union, 12, 19 Sophie s Choice (movie), 22 Sopot, 241 247 Sopot Sailing Club, 243 Sopot Surf Centrum, 243 Southern Pier (Molo Południowe; Gdynia), 243 Speed limit, 35 Sphinx restaurants, 8 Spielberg, Steven, 22 Spodek (Katowice), 7 Stalin, Josef, 19, 83, 197 Sta^czyk (Matejko), 83 Stara Synagoga (Old Synagogue; Kraków), 128 Sun/elements/extreme weather exposure, 39 Super Pharm (Warsaw), 66 Survival in Auschwitz (Levi), 24 Sushi, 7 Sustainable tourism, 43 44 Suwałki Lake District, 267 274 2widnica accommodations, 194 Peace Churches of, 1, 57, 191, 193 restaurant, 195 Swimming Kraków, 146 Sopot, 9 Synagoga i Cmentarz Remuh (Remuh Synagogue and Cemetery; Kraków), 128 129 Synagoga Wysoka (High Synagogue; Kraków), 128 Synagog No9yków (No9yk Synagogue; Warsaw), 86 Synagogues Kraków, 128 129 No9yk Synagogue (Synagog No9yków; Warsaw), 86

White Synagogue (Sejny), 271 Zamoo5, 11 Zamo15, 176 Szambelan (Kraków), 132 Szklarska Por7ba, 9, 197 199 accommodations, 200 Szlak Piastowski (Piast Route), 216 Szlif (Warsaw), 93 Szpilman, Władysław, 86 Szymborska, Wisława, 24, 25 Tableware, Warsaw, 93 Tantra (Toru^), 224 Tarnów, 8, 19, 116, 157 161 Tarnów Regional Museum, 158 Tarnów s Jewish Trail, 158 Tatra Museum (Muzeum Tatrza^skie; Zakopane), 151 Tauck s, 45 Taxes, 284 Taxis Cieszyn, 114 Cz7stochowa, 106 Gda^sk, 226, 229 Kraków, 121 Łód3, 100, 101 Malbork, 253 Mazurian Lake District, 261 Warsaw, 62, 65 Wrocław, 185 Tea, 27 Teatr Wielki (Warsaw), 94 Teatr Wytwórnia (Warsaw), 94 Teatr 0ydowski (Jewish Theater; Warsaw), 94 Technology, Museum of (Muzeum Techniki; Warsaw), 10, 82 83 Telephones, 45, 284 Warsaw, 66 Temple Synagogue (Kraków), 129 Tennis, 146 Teutonic Order of the Hospital of St. Mary, 255 The Captive Mind (Miłosz), 25 This Way for the Gas, Ladies and Gentlemen (Borowski), 25 Three Colors movies, 22 Ticada Centrum Nurkowania (Gdynia), 244 Tick-bite encephalitis, 38 39 TIES (The International Ecotourism Society), 43 Tiga Yacht and Marina (Sztynort), 264 Time zone, 284 Tipping, 284 Toilets, 284 Tomba Tomba (Multibn), 96 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Warsaw), 81 Toro (Warsaw), 96 Toru^, 21, 220 224 Tourism Concern, 43 Tourist information, 29 Auschwitz-Birkenau (Oswiecim), 147 Białowie9a, 274 275 Cieszyn, 114 Cz7stochowa, 106 Gda^sk, 227 228 Gi9ycko and Mikołajki, 260 Gniezno, 216 Hel Peninsula, 248 Jelenia Góra, 196 Kłodzko, 202 Kraków, 120 Łeba, 250 Łód3, 100 Lublin, 165 Pozna^, 206 Sopot and Gdynia, 242 Suwałki Lake District, 268 Tarnów, 158 Toru^, 221 Wrocław, 185 Zakopane, 150 151 Tourist Punkt (Zakopane), 151 Tours organized Gda^sk, 234 Kraków, 131 Lublin, 167 Mazurian Lake District, 265 266 Warsaw, 88 Wrocław, 187 package, 45 Town Hall (Ratusz) Gda^sk, 232 Tarnów, 158 Wrocław, 186 Zamo15, 175 Town Hall Tower (Wie9a Ratuszowa; Kraków), 122, 125 visitor information, 120 Town Square (Stary Rynek), Pozna^, 206 Toys, Warsaw, 93 Train travel, 34, 35 36 Trakt (Warsaw), 88 Trams Kraków, 121 Łód3, 101 Warsaw, 64 Transportation, 35 37 green-friendly, 44 Transportation Security Administration (TSA), 31 Travel CUTS, 42 Travelers checks, 38 Travelex Insurance Services, 282 Travel Guard International, 282 Traveling to Poland, 33 35 Travel insurance, 282 Travel Insured International, 282 TravelSafe, 282 Treblinka, 89 Trip cancellation insurance, 282 True Love (Szymborska), 24 Tuchlin, Lake, 264 Tusk, Donald, 13 Tygmont (Lowbn), 96 Ujazdowski Castle (Warsaw), Museum of Modern Art at, 94 Ujazdowski Park (Warsaw), playground, 87 Umschlagplatz (Warsaw), 86 United Kingdom customs regulations, 32 embassy and consulates, 66, 281 health insurance, 40 passports, 284 United States customs regulations, 30 31 embassy and consulates, 66, 280 useful phone numbers, 284 visitor information in, 29 USIT, 42 Utopia (Warsaw), 96 305

306 average temperatures and Warsaw Zoo, 87 Valkyrie (movie), 21, 263 precipitation, 32 Warta (Pozna^), 215 Vegetarian travel, 42 business hours, 65 Water, drinking, 285 Visas, 30, 285 camera repair, 65 Water Taxi Company Visitor information, 29 currency exchange, 65 66 (Sopot), 243 Auschwitz-Birkenau doctors and dentists, 66 Wawel (Kraków), 11 (Oswiecim), 147 drugstores, 66 Wawel Castle (Kraków), 126 Białowie9a, 274 275 emergencies, 66 Wawel Cathedral and Cathedral Museum (Katedra Cieszyn, 114 getting around, 64 Cz7stochowa, 106 history of, 80 Wawelska; Kraków), Gda^sk, 227 228 Internet access, 66 126 127 Gi9ycko and Mikołajki, 260 laundry, 66 Wawel Chocolates (Kraków), Gniezno, 216 layout of, 63 64 132 Hel Peninsula, 248 maps, 66 Weather, 32 Jelenia Góra, 196 newspapers and Websites, traveler s Kłodzko, 202 magazines, 66 toolbox, 46 Kraków, 120 nightlife, 94 96 Wedel (Warsaw), 93 Łeba, 250 outdoor activities, 87 W7gorzewo, 260 Łód3, 100 post offices, 66 Western Union, 284 Lublin, 165 restaurants, 74 78 Westerplatte (Gda^sk), 232, Pozna^, 206 milk bars, 76 234 Sopot and Gdynia, 242 for sweets and White (movie), 22 Suwałki Lake District, 268 desserts, 78 White Synagogue (Sejny), Tarnów, 158 safety, 66 271 Toru^, 221 shopping, 90 93 Wieliczka Salt Mine (Kopalnia Wrocław, 185 Soli Wieliczka), 144, 145 Zakopane, 150 151 79 90 Wieliczka Salt Mines, 116 Vodka, 6, 28 day trips from Warsaw, Wielkopolska Ethnographic Kraków, 132 89 90 Park (near Gniezno), 217 Warsaw, 93 Old Town, 79 85 Wie9a Ratuszowa (Town Hall 0ubrówka, 6, 276 organized tours, 88 Tower; Kraków), 120, Voice over Internet protocol outside Warsaw, 89 122, 125 (VoIP), 46 Praga, 86 87 Wi-Fi access, 46 47 Volunteer travel, 43 suggested itineraries, 50, Wigry National Park, 268, Vonage, 46 51, 56 269, 271 Vrba, Rudolf, 24 taxis, 62, 65 Wilanów Palace telephones, 66 (Potockiego), 89 traveling to, 62 63 Wilczy Szaniec (Wolf s Lair; Wajda, Andrzej, 18, 22 uprising of 1944, 18 Gierło9), 262 263 Wał7sa, Lech, 13, 19, 20 21 visitor information, 63 Wildlife watching, Suwałki Walking and hiking, 37 Warsaw, In Your Pocket, 63 Lake District, 270 Białowie9a, 277 Warsaw Adventure, 88 Wilson, Woodrow, 17 Cz7stochowa, 106 Warsaw Business Journal, 66 Windsurfing, 243, 248 249 Karkonosze National Park, Warsaw Chamber of Wisła Kraków, 146 198 199 Opera, 94 Witkiewicz, Stanisław, 20 Kazimierz Dolny, 179 Warsaw City Breaks, 63 Wittchen (Warsaw), 93 Kraków, 121, 145 146 Warsaw Guided Tours, 88 W. Kruk (Warsaw), 93 Łód3, 100 Warsaw Pissup Tours, 88 Władysław Reymont Airport Słowi^ski National Warsaw Tourist Card, 65 (Łód3), 100 Park, 251 Warsaw Tourist Office, 63 Wojciechowski, Stanisław, 84 Tarnów, 160 Warsaw Transport Wolf s Lair (Wilczy Szaniec; in the Tatras, 9 Authority, 64 Gierło9), 262 263 Warsaw, 64 Warsaw Uprising, 84 Wolski Woods (Las Wolski; Zakopane, 151 Warsaw Uprising Museum Kraków), 145 Walk of Stars (Łód3), 98 (Muzeum Powstania Warszawskiego; Warsaw), 209 The Wolsztyn Experience, Wang Church (Karpacz), 198 Warsaw, 62 96 84 85 Women travelers, 42 accommodations, 67 74 Warsaw Voice, 66 World War I, 17 American Express, 65

World War II and German occupation, 17 21, 83. See also Jewish community Beł9ec death camp, 172 173 Cieszyn, 113 Gda^sk, 232, 234 Kazimierz (Kraków), 127 Kraków, 117 Łód3, 98 Lublin, 163 164, 166 Majdanek concentration camp, 171 172 Monument to the Warsaw Uprising (Warsaw), 84 Radogoszcz Prison (Łód3), 102 Słowi^ski National Park, 251 Stutthof (Sztutowo) Death Camp (Gda^sk), 234 Warsaw Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powstania Warszawskiego), 84 85 Wolf s Lair (Wilczy Szaniec; Gierło9), 262 263 Wrocław, 184 Zamo15, 174 176 Wrocław, 182 191 accommodations, 188 189 exploring, 186 187 getting around, 185 layout of, 185 nightlife, 191 restaurants, 190 191 shopping, 187 188 traveling to, 184 185 visitor information, 185 Wrocław Opera, 191 Wrocław Philharmonic, 191 Wygodny Rower (Warsaw), 65 Wyspia^ski, Stanisław, 125 Wyspia^ski Museum (Kraków), 125 Wytwórnia Wódek Koneser (Koneser Vodka Factory; Warsaw), 87 Young Poland (Młoda Polska) movement, 125 Yours Gallery (Warsaw), 91 Zakopane, 9, 20, 149 156 Zakopane style, 20, 150, 151 Zakopane Tours, 152 Zamek (Castle; Lublin), 166 Zamek Cultural Center (Pozna^), 215 Zamek Królewski (Royal Castle; Warsaw), 79 80 Zamek Reszel (Gothic castle), 262 Zamenhof, Ludwik, 86 Zamojskie Museum (Zamo15), 175, 176 Zamo15, 174 178 Zamoyski Palace (Zamo15), 175 0egluga Ostródzko-Elblºska (Elblºg), 256, 257 0elazowa Wola, 81, 89 90 Złote Jajo (Toru^), 224 Złote Tarasy (Warsaw), 90 Zoos Kraków, 145 Warsaw, 87 0ubrówka Vodka, 6, 276 0uraw (Crane; Gda^sk), 230 Zwyrtozłka (Zakopane), 151 0ydowskiego Muzeum Galicja (Galicia Jewish Museum; Kraków), 10, 128 0ydowski Instytut Historyczny (Jewish Historical Institute and Museum; Warsaw), 85 ACCOMMODATIONS Abel (Kraków), 137 Agharta Pensjonat (Kazimierz Dolny), 180 Amadeus (Kraków), 134 Angela (Gda^sk), 237 Art Hotel (Wrocław), 188 Art Hotel Niebieski (Kraków), 136 Artis (Zamo15), 176 Aureus Hotel (Gda^sk), 235 Avantgarde (Wrocław), 189 Best Western Hotel 0ubrówka (Białowie9a), 277 Best Western Prima (Wrocław), 188 Biała Lilia (Gda^sk), 236 Bolków Hotel (Jawor), 195 Boutique Bed & Breakfas (Warsaw), 71 Campanile (Łód3), 103 Campanile (Warsaw), 72 Casa D Oro (Kłodzko), 203 Castle Inn (Warsaw), 71 72 CEM Guest House (CEM Pokoje Go1cinne; Białowie9a), 277 278 Centrum (Wrocław), 189 Chałupy 3, 249 Copernicus (Kraków), 134 Cybulskiego Guest Rooms (Kraków), 137 138 Dom Aktora (Gda^sk), 236 Dom Architekta (Kazimierz Dolny), 180 Dom Jana Pawła II (Wrocław), 189 Dom Nauczyciela (Augustów), 271 Dom Pracy Twórczej (Stary Folwark), 272 Dom Schumannów (Gda^sk), 237 Duval (Warsaw), 72 Eden (Kraków), 136 137 Elzam Gromada (Elblºg), 258 Ester (Kraków), 135 Etap (Warsaw), 73 Etap Kraków Bronowice (Kraków), 138 Francuski (Kraków), 135 Galindia (Ruciane Nida), 266 Gałkowo Hunter s Mansion (Dwór Łowczego; Mikołajki), 267 Go1ciniec Jaczno (Jaczno Lodge; Jeleniewo), 272 Grand Hotel (Łód3), 103 Grand Hotel Lublinianka (Lublin), 168 Grand Hotel Sopot by Sofitel, 244 245 Grand Hotel Stamary (Zakopane), 153 154 Gródek (Kraków), 134 Grot Hotel (Malbork), 254 255 Hanza (Gda^sk), 235 Holiday Inn (Wrocław), 188 Hotel Adalbertus (Gniezno), 217 Hotel & Restauracja Carska (Białowie9a), 278 Hotel Belvedere (Zakopane), 153 Hotel Białowieski (Białowie9a), 278 Hotel Bristol (Tarnów), 160 Hotel Brovaria (Pozna^), 210 Hotel Bryza (Jurata), 249 250 Hotel Campanile (Lublin), 169 Hotel Central (Cieszyn), 115 307

308 Hotel Cesarski (Gi9ycko), 266 Hotel Europa (Lublin), 168 Hotel Galicja (Oswiecim), 149 Hotel Gotyk (Toru^), 222 Hotel Gromada (Zakopane), 154 Hotel Habenda (Piecki), 265 Hotel Heban (Toru^), 222 Hotel Jawor, 195 Hotel Jelonek (Jelenia Góra), 199 Hotel Korona (Kłodzko), 203 Hotel Król Kazimierz (Kazimierz Dolny), 180 Hotel Kryształ (Szklarska Por7ba), 200 Hotel Ksiº9 (Wałbrzych), 194 Hotel Lech (Pozna^), 212 Hotel Litwor (Zakopane), 153 Hotel Mercure (Jelenia Góra), 199 Hotel My1liwski (Miłki), 265 Hotel Patio (Wrocław), 188 189 Hotel Petite Fleur (Toru^), 222 223 Hotel Piast (Cieszyn), 115 Hotel Pietrak (Gniezno), 217 Hotel Pod Lwem (Elblºg), 258 Hotel Przy O1lej Bramie (Wałbrzych), 194 Hotel Retman (Toru^), 223 Hotel Royal (Pozna^), 210 211 Hotel Rzymski (Pozna^), 211 Hotel Savoy (Łód3), 103 104 Hotel Spichrz (Toru^), 223 Hotel Stare Miasto (Pozna^), 211 Hotel U Janu (Tarnów), 160 Jantar Hotel (Puck Bay), 249 Kamienica Gotyk (Gda^sk), 237 Kanu Klub (Piecki), 266 Karczma Biskupi^ska (Biskupin), 219 Karmel (Kraków), 137 Kawiarnia Niucka (Malbork), 254 Kazimierz (Kraków), 137 Królewski (Gda^sk), 235 Kyriad Prestige (Warsaw), 72 Le Meridien Bristol (Warsaw), 67 Le Régina (Warsaw), 67, 70 Liburnia (Cieszyn), 115 Lublin, 169 Malta^ski (Kraków), 136 Maria (Warsaw), 72 73 Marriott (Warsaw), 70 Mercure Grand (Warsaw), 71 Mercure Helios Toru^, 222 Mercure Patria (Cz7stochowa), 108 Na Ko^cu 2wiata (Sztabin), 270 Nathan s Villa Hostel (Kraków), 138 Nathan s Villa Hostel (Warsaw), 73 Ober9a Pod Psem (near Mikołajki), 267 Oki Doki (Warsaw), 73 74 Old Mill Inn (Karczma Stary Młyn; Gi9ycko), 266 Old Town Apartments (Warsaw), 73 Orbis Hotel Zamojski (Zamo15), 177 Palac Bonerowski (Kraków), Relaks (Karpacz), 199 Renesans (Zamo15), 177 Residence Diana (Warsaw), 70 Rezydencja (Karpacz), 200 Rezydencja Solei (Pozna^), 211 Rialto (Warsaw), 70 71 Royal Route Residence (Warsaw), 73 RT Hotel Rezydent (Kraków), 136 Sabala (Zakopane), 154 Saski (Kraków), 137 Sekwana (Cz7stochowa), 108 Senacki (Kraków), 136 Senator (Zamo15), 177 Sheraton (Warsaw), 67 Sheraton Kraków (Kraków), 135 Sheraton Pozna^ Hotel, 210 Stary (Kraków), 135 Szuflada Café & Bar (Augustów), 271 Tourist Information Office (Tarnów), 160 U Haliny (Stary Folwark), 272 U Pana Cogito (Kraków), 138 Villa Bohema (Kazimierz Dolny), 180 Villa Sedan (Sopot), 245 Vincent Pensjonat (Kazimierz Dolny), 180 Waksman (Lublin), 169 Wenecki (Cz7stochowa), 108 Westin (Warsaw), 67 Willa Krzyska (Tarnów), 161 Willa Zacisze (Sopot), 245 Wolne Miasto (Gda^sk), 236 Zamek Ryn, 266 Hotel Vanilla (Lublin), 134 135 168 169 Pałac Paulinum (Jelenia Hotel Victoria (Lublin), 168 Góra), 199 RESTAURANTS (Zakopane), 154 Hotel Zamek (Malbork), 255 Hotel Zamkowy (Wałbrzych), 194 Hotel Zaułek (Wrocław), 189 IBB Andersia (Pozna^), 210 IBIS (Łód3), 103 IBIS Ostrobramska (Warsaw), 72 IBIS Stare Miasto (Warsaw), 72 IBIS Warszawa Centrum (Warsaw), 72 InterContinental Hotel (Warsaw), 67 Hotel Villa Marilor Pensjonat Boss (Elblºg), 258 Pensjonat M.F. (Elblºg), 258 Pensjonat Sioło Budy (near Białowie9a), 278 279 Pensjonat Szarotka (Zakopane), 154 155 Piast-Roman Hotel (2widnica), 194 Podewils (Gda^sk), 235 Pod Wawelem (Kraków), 136 Polonia Palace (Warsaw), 70 Premiere Classe (Warsaw), 74 Qubus Hotel (Wrocław), 189 Radisson SAS Centrum (Warsaw), 67 Park Hotel (2widnica), 194 Abrams Tower (Wrocław), 190 Aladdin s (Wrocław), 191 AleGloria (Warsaw), 74 Alfredo (Szklarska Por7ba), 201 Anatewka (Łód3), 104 Arkadia (Zamo15), 177 Avanti (Pozna^), 214 Bagelmama (Kraków), 142 Bar Mi1 (Toru^), 223 Bar Mleczny Neptun (Gda^sk), 240 Bar Mleczny Pod Temidº (Kraków), 142

Bar Mleczny Prasowy (Warsaw), 76 Bar Przysta^ (Sopot), 245 Batida (Warsaw), 78 Ba9anciarnia (Pozna^), 212 Bistro Pod Piºtka (Gniezno), 218 Blikle (Warsaw), 78 Bolków Hotel Restaurant (Jawor), 195 Brovaria (Pozna^), 212 213 Buena Vista (Kraków), 141 Cafe Rynkowa (Kazimierz Dolny), 181 Cafe Skrzynka (Cz7stochowa), 108 Camera Café (Kraków), 142 Cherubino (Kraków), 140 Chimera (Kraków), 140 Ciºgoty i T7sknoty (Łód3), 104 Ciepłe Kluchy, 78 CK Dezerterzy (Kraków), 141 Cocorico Café (Pozna^), 215 Cyrano de Bergerac, 138, 140 Cyrano et Roxane (Sopot), 245 246 Czerwone Drzwi (Gda^sk), 239 Cztery Pory Roku (Jelenia Góra), 200 Dark Restaurant (Pozna^), 212 Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Once Upon a Time in Kazimierz; Kraków), 140 141 Diavolo (Cz7stochowa), 108 109 Dobra Kuchnia (Sopot), 246 Domowy Przysmaki (Kraków), 142 Dom Vikingów (Pozna^), 213 Dom Wigierski Restaurant (Stary Folwark), 272 Dwa Pokoje z Kuchniº (Rogalin), 209 Edo Sushi Bar (Kraków), 140 Estragon (Gda^sk), 239 Frida (Warsaw), 67 Ganesh (Łód3), 104 105 Goldwasser (Gda^sk), 238 Gospoda Targowa (Cieszyn), 115 Gothic Café & Restaurant (Malbork), 255 256 Hacjenda (Pozna^), 213 Jama Michalika (Kraków), 142 143 Kalina (Zakopane), 155 Karczma Biskupi^ska (Biskupin), 219 Karczma Lwówska (Wrocław), 190 Karczma Osocznika (near Białowie9a), 278 279 Karczma u Braci Kiemliczów (Cz7stochowa), 109 Karczma u Zagłoby (Cz7stochowa), 109 Kawaleria (Kraków), 141 Kawiarnia Nale1nikarnia (Jelenia Góra), 200 Ke Moro Original Gypsy Restaurant (Tarnów), 161 Knajpa u (Mikołajki), 267 Knajpa U Fryzjera (Kazimierz Dolny), 181 Kobi (Lublin), 170 Kolorowe (Zakopane), 155 Korona (Augustów), 273 Kredens (Pozna^), 214 Kresowa (Pozna^), 213 Kresowianka (Gniezno), 218 Kuchnia W7drowca (Elblºg), 258 La Rotisserie (Warsaw), 74 75 Leniwa (Toru^), 223 Le Scandale (Kraków), 141 Les Couleurs/Kolory (Kraków), 143 Lotos (Warsaw), 76 To Lubi7 (Warsaw), 78 Mała Gruzja (Warsaw), 77 Mała Szwajcaria (Zakopane), 155 Mamma Mia (Kraków), 141 142 Mammamija (Pozna^), 214 Manekin (Toru^), 223 224 Maska (Augustów), 273 Metafora/Klub Jazgot (Szklarska Por7ba), 201 Ministry of Culture and National Heritage (Warsaw), 77 Mleczarnia (Kraków), 143 Mły^skie Koło (Pozna^), 212 Muzealna (Zamo15), 177 Mykonos (Pozna^), 213 214 Namaste India Clay Oven (Warsaw), 77 Nonsolo Pizza (Warsaw), 77 78 Nostalgia (Kraków), 141 Novocaina (Wrocław), 190 Noworolski (Kraków), 143 Ober9a u Hochoła (Szklarska Por7ba), 201 Ogródek Pod Jabłoniami (Augustów), 273 Oregano Cafe (Lublin), 170 Otwarcze (Zakopane), 155 Park Hotel Restaurant (2widnica), 195 Pawłowicz (Warsaw), 78 Piano Bar (Pozna^), 212 Piekarnia Raszczyk (Elblºg), 258 Pierogarnia U Dzika (Gda^sk), 239 Piero9ki U Vincenta (Kraków), 142 Pireus (Cz7stochowa), 109 Piwnica 2widnicka (Wrocław), 190 Pizza Dominium (Zakopane), 156 Pod Czarnym Łab7dziem (near Gi9ycko), 266 267 Pod Koziołkami (Pozna^), 214 Pod Krzy9ykiem (Kraków), 140 Pod Łososiem (Gda^sk), 237 238 Pod Siejº (Stary Folwark), 273 274 Podwale Piwna Kompania (Warsaw), 76 Presto (Łód3), 105 Przekºski Zakºski (Warsaw), 75 Pstrºg Górski (Zakopane), 156 Pub Samarta (Lublin), 170 Restauracja-Hotel Pałacowa (Biskupin), 219 Restauracja pod Kogutem (Elblºg), 258 Restauracja Targ Rybny (Gda^sk), 239 Restauracja Villa Uphagena (Gda^sk), 238 Restauracja Zamkowa (Malbork), 255 Restaurant & Club Vena (Warsaw), 77 Rodeo Drive (Wrocław), 191 Ró9ana (Warsaw), 75 Ró9e i Zen (Toru^), 224 Rucola (Sopot), 246 Sakana Sushi Bar (Wrocław), 190 309

310 Salonik (Gda^sk), 238 Słony i Słodki (Warsaw), 78 Smaki Warszawy (Warsaw), 78 Soprano (Zakopane), 156 Sorrento (Jelenia Góra), 200 Spiritus Sanctus (Gda^sk), 238 239 Staropolska (Kazimierz Dolny), 181 Stary Browar (Pozna^), 212 Surf Tawerna (Chałupy), 249 Szpilka (Warsaw), 75 Tatrza^ska (Tarnów), 161 Tradycja (Warsaw), 75 U Fukiera (Warsaw), 75 U Kucharzy (Warsaw), 75 76 U Szewca Irish Pub (Lublin), 170 U Szwejka (Warsaw), 76 Varoska (Łód3), 104 Verona (Zamo15), 178 Warsaw Tortilla Factory, 78 Wedel (Warsaw), 78 Weranda Caffe (Pozna^), 215 Wierzynek (Kraków), 140 Wróble (Warsaw), 78 Zagroda Bamberska (Pozna^), 212 Zielona Weranda (Pozna^), 215 Zloty Osiol (Lublin), 170 0ywiciel (Warsaw), 76 77